FAQs about our Rustproofing.
Q: What are Benefits of Rustproofing?
Increases the resale value of your vehicle. A rust-free car is worth more to a buyer. Extends your car’s lifespan. By properly protecting the undercarriage, body panels and mechanical parts your vehicle will last longer. Reduces repair costs. If left untreated, rust can spread to brake lines and cables, even your vehicle’s electrical system. Safer vehicle. Over time corrosion will compromise the structural integrity of your car. Remember to inspect your vehicle regularly for signs of rust and if in doubt, come and pop in for some free advice.
Q: What do you use?
Whatever it best suited for that vehicle. Any vehicle that is not new, we look at the condition and what it is going to be used for, how regularly the rustproofing will be topped up, and come up with the best long term solution. New, or new’ish vehicles we use a clear coating. It’s like a clear nail varnish that dries hard so no sand sticks to it. Vehicles with some rust, we use a bitumen based undercoating. The undercoating seals and stops the rust and the satin black covers the ugly rust. Looks really good and adds value if you want to sell it down the track. Inside the chassis rails, bottom parts of the doors behind the door cards and in the chassis cross members and box sections, we use a Cavity Wax, which is a sticky tacky rustproofing material that will always be sticky. It's like that by design. It gets sprayed with a fogger to get a misted coating where direct access is not possible. This is similar to the Old School Tectyl, made by Valvoline. We use a penetrating Lanolin that sets hard over time in severely rusted internals. We flood those areas to seal out moisture. These areas have no traffic or chance of product being wiped off so it is there for a VERY long time.
Q. How much does it cost?
$550 for a 4x4 or ute or upgrade for Beach Pack +200
$495 for a sedan
$750 for a big American truck like F-250
$750 for a collector's vehicle that need special attention.
See our price list for full details
Do you clean before you rustproof?
Yes, we mostly “Dry Clean” with a dry stiff brush, a rag and lots of compressed air. This is the preferred method and works great with sand and general dust. We do water pressure clean if mud can’t come off with dry cleaning, or it is excessively dirty or ex-mining (additional cost occur) We also rinse with “SaltOff” if it has just come off the beach.
Q: How long do you need the car for?
We need the car most of the day. Drop off in the morning, pick up mid afternoon. If we have to pressure clean, we need to keep it overnight with fans under to fully dry before we spray.
Q: When is the best time to Rustproof a vehicle?
As close to new as possible. 2nd best time is NOW. By rustproofing, we are stalling time and preserving your vehicle and its life span.
Q: Does it drip?
NO! Except if I use a penetrating LANOLIN (Lanotec UP mostly). We will use lanolin when there is excessive dirt or rust scale that we cannot get out of the chassis rail or in a box section or door bottom seam. We then flood that area until it is saturated and there will be some dripping while the lanolin cures and sets. We will chat to you about on the day if we go down that route.
Q: What if my car has existing rust?
No Problem. If it is not blistering with holes right through (severe corrosion), we can treat the area and over coat once treated and the rust will stop. All cars older than a couple of years WILL have some surface rust in the chassis or sub-frame. That is a price we pay for being in a coastal town.
Q: How clean must my car be for it to be sprayed underneath?
The underbody should be free of mud and grime. If you pressure clean the underbody it should be done at least 1-2 days before bringing it for rustproofing. We can also do the pressure cleaning for you (additional cost) and we will need the car for 2 days to allow for drying time. Dry dust/dirt is suspended in the undercoating material. Think of it like encapsulating the coated area with some road dirt, dust etc but it is dry and firm. With the exclusion of moisture and oxygen, rust will stop and not continue.
Q: When can I go on the beach?
We recommend waiting 3 days before taking your car on the beach. It will allow the protection to fully cure. Gone are the days that you need to take your car for a drive on a bumpy dusty road to “settle in and seal” the rustproofing. Our products are touch dry within 4 hours at 20 degrees. 80% cured in 12 hours and fully cured after 3 days. Nothing stopping you going for a drive on a bumpy dusty road if there is fun to be had.
Q: What warranty do you offer?
10 year Warranty from manufactured date, lifetime guarantee. That is MY lifetime. We guarantee our products and workmanship for a lifetime, with the proviso that we have the opportunity to service and top up the rustproofing. We guarantee that we will keep a lid on corrosion if you have the annual servicing done. If you are doing a lap of Australia, then we see you when you get back and take off where we left off.
Excludes bull bars, tow bars, aftermarket fitted accessories. Excludes vehicles which have been involved in an accident or EX mining vehicles. This is a Fair and Reasonable warranty. You MUST at soonest opportunity let us know if you notice anything untoward.
Q: What do you do when you do an Annual Inspection Service and top up?
We do a thorough inspection to the whole vehicle, not only the areas where we sprayed. We check around the doors, hinges rubbers, windows, under the hood and just about everywhere you can poke an inspection torch at. If we find anything not right, we make it right and do whatever it takes to get it right. We also top up where stone chips and sand blasting has damaged the undercarriage. The Annual Servicing is probably the best value our customers get over the long run as you don’t have to think about the whole rusting headache. Peace of Mind! See video below!
Q: How long does it last?
Clear coating lasts 10 plus years. Direct sun, 3 years.
Black bitumen based lasts between 5 and 25 years. Being bitumen, it can dry and crack over time. That is why we like to service annually and we top it up where needed (Capped at $95)
If you drive off road you WILL have sandblasting and stone chipping and that needs to be topped up early.
Q: Should I go for Electronic rustproofing?
We do not recommend electronic rust protection as first line of defence. We specialise in spray rustproofing which is proven to protect your vehicle.