FAQs about our Rustproofing.
Q: What are Benefits of Rustproofing?
- Rustproofing increases the resale value of your vehicle.
- A rust-free car is worth more to a buyer.
- It extends your car’s lifespan.
- Reduces repair costs.
- Safer vehicle. If left untreated, rust can spread to brake lines and cables, even your vehicle’s electrical system. Over time corrosion will compromise the structural integrity of your car.
By properly protecting the undercarriage, body panels and mechanical parts your vehicle will last longer. Remember to inspect your vehicle regularly for signs of rust and if in doubt, come and pop in for some free advice.
Q: What do you use?
We use whatever is best suited for each individual vehicle.
For older vehicles: we check the condition, have a chat with you about how you use your vehicle, what it is going to be used for, how regularly the rustproofing will be topped up, and determine the best long-term solution..
For new (or newish) vehicles: we use a clear coating. It’s like a clear nail varnish that dries hard so that no sand can stick to it.
For vehicles that have some rust we use a bitumen based undercoating. The undercoating seals and stops the rust while the satin black finish covers the visually unappealing rust. Not only does this look great but it adds to the resale value if you decide to sell it down the track.
Inside the chassis rails, bottom parts of the doors, behind the door cards and in the chassis cross members and box sections, we use a Cavity Wax. This is a sticky, tacky rustproofing material that will remain sticky over its lifespan. It's like that by design. It gets sprayed with a 'fogger' to get a misted coating to areas where direct access is not possible. This is similar to the old-school Tectyl, made by Valvoline. We use a penetrating Lanolin that sets hard over time in severely rusted internals. We flood those areas to seal out moisture. These areas have no traffic or chance of product being wiped off so it remains effective against rust for VERY long time.
Q. How much does it cost?
See our price list for full details
Do you clean before you rustproof?
Yes, we mostly “Dry Clean” with a dry stiff brush, a rag and lots of compressed air. This is the preferred method and works great with sand and general dust. We do a water pressure clean if mud can’t come off with dry cleaning, or it is excessively dirty or it is an ex-mining vehicle (additional costs may occur). We also rinse with “SaltOff” if it has just come off the beach.
Q: How long do you need the car for?
We need the car for a day. Drop it off in the morning, pick up mid afternoon. If we have to pressure clean, we need to keep it overnight with fans under to allow to fully dry before we spray.
Q: When is the best time to Rustproof a vehicle?
As soon as possible. By rustproofing, we are stalling time and preserving your vehicle and its life span.
Q: Does it drip?
No! Except if we use a penetrating LANOLIN (Lanotec UP mostly). We will use lanolin when there is excessive dirt or rust scale that we cannot get out of the chassis rail or in a box section or door bottom seam. We then flood that area until it is saturated and there will be some dripping while the lanolin cures and sets. We will chat to you about this on the day if we go down that route.
Q: What if my car has existing rust?
No Problem. If it is not blistering with holes right through (severe corrosion), we can treat the area and over coat once treated and the rust will stop. All cars older than a couple of years WILL have some surface rust in the chassis or sub-frame. That is a price we pay for being in a coastal town.
Q: How clean must my car be for it to be sprayed underneath?
The underbody should be free of mud and grime. If you pressure clean the underbody it should be done at least 1-2 days before bringing it in for rustproofing. We can also do the pressure cleaning for you at an additional cost and we will need the car for 2 days to allow for drying time.
Q: When can I go on the beach?
We recommend waiting 3 days before taking your car to the beach. It will allow the protection to fully cure. Gone are the days that you need to take your car for a drive on a bumpy dusty road to “settle in and seal” the rustproofing.
Our products are touch dry within 4 hours at 20 degrees.
80% cured in 12 hours and fully cured after 3 days.
So, there's nothing stopping you from going for a drive on a bumpy dusty road if there is fun to be had!
Q: What warranty do you offer?
We offer a 10 year Warranty from manufactured date, and a Lifetime Guarantee. We guarantee our products and workmanship for a lifetime, with the proviso that we have the opportunity to service and top up the rustproofing. We guarantee that we will keep a lid on corrosion if you have the annual servicing done.
If you are doing a lap of Australia - no problem - then we see you when you get back and pick up where we left off.
Our warranty excludes bull bars, tow bars and aftermarket fitted accessories. Excludes vehicles which have been involved in an accident or ex-mining vehicles. This is a Fair and Reasonable warranty. You must let us know if you notice anything untoward at soonest opportunity.
Q: What do you do when you do an Annual Inspection Service and top up?
We do a thorough inspection of the whole vehicle, not only the areas where we sprayed. We check around the doors, hinges rubbers, windows, under the hood and just about everywhere you can poke an inspection torch at. If we find anything not right we do whatever it takes to make it right. We also top up where stone chips and sand blasting has damaged the undercarriage. The Annual Servicing is probably the best value our customers get over the long run as you don’t have to think about the whole rusting headache. Peace of Mind!
See our video below for a more comprehensive idea of our Annual Inspection service.
Q: How long does it last?
Clear coating lasts 10 years +.
If in direct sun, 3 years.
Black bitumen based lasts between 5 and 25 years. Being bitumen, it can dry and crack over time. That is why we like to service annually and we top it up where needed (capped at $95).
If you drive off-road you WILL have sandblasting and stone chipping and that needs to be topped up early.
Q: Should I go for Electronic rustproofing?
We do not recommend electronic rust protection as first line of defence. We specialise in spray rustproofing which is proven to protect your vehicle.